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Vanilla 1.1.5a is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.
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- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 8th 2010
Looks like I could use that touch up welding on those cases. Can I drop them off to you? -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeFeb 8th 2010
yep. I will be at Amy's tonight and Tuesday (34th and Madison, just off Hawthorne) and my place on Wed.
she is generally home most of the day so if you want to drop them off at her place let me know and I will let her know, and give an exact address. If you get them to me by tomorrow night I can get them back by Thursday easily. -
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- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
http://www.treatland.tv/polini-sheet-0-30mm-carbon-reed-p/polini-blue-reeds-0.30mm.htm
there are sheets of varying thickness on the site. You cut to fit.
Oh and your intake is on the way, should be here this week. -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
thanks holmes.
what thickness should I get? -
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- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010 edited
I think the one i listed should be about right. Maybe Vince can chime in on that, I could be off. did you happen to ask over at stella speed if there is a ready fit alternative people like> maybe some boyesen two stage. I have those on my mb5 and i like em. -
- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010 edited
http://www.treatland.tv/boyesen-dual-stage-power-reeds-puch-p/boyesen-dual-stage-reeds-puch.htm
I find it particularly telling that boyesen, the worlds premier reed company, refers to themselves as "the gatekeepers of power", I name I would love to have for myself in my dream world -
- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
just need to determine that they are the right size and cover the hole, then the mounting screws are drilled correctly. with the boyesen reeds you remove the metal reed stop thing and run the little bar they provide to hold it down. plus they are yellow and look like curry. -
- CommentAuthor8ball
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
The thickness of the reeds can determine where your powerband will be. Thinner reeds and the power band will be lower and it won't rev out as far as the reeds will flutter. Thicker reeds will move the power band up in the rpm and it will rev out further, but at a loss of some low end as the reeds won't open as far. You need to make your decision based on the pipe you have, the port timing, the size carb you plan to run and so on. Gearing also plays into the choice of reed thickness. I still have so reed material around, I think it is either 40 or 45. How big a piece you need? I could bring some next time. -
- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
he has a single flap flat reed, so probably not much. the reed in there now is metal. DOH! -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
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- CommentAuthor8ball
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
I think there is a support group for men with single flaps. -
- CommentAuthor8ball
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
I would guess the improvement there is that the divider is removed so is has more surface area and alittle softer than stock to open sooner, but still be stable enough to rev out as far as stock. I would work on increasing the size of the stock reed cage to flow more and see about ditching the metal limiter. If you can't increase the reed flow, there is a limit on how big a carb you can run. As it sits now a 20mm would be the biggest, any thing bigger is a waste as it would be restricted to a 19mm hole. -
- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
you could also consider making a bigger block and running a proper reed cage. mike just made his out of a block of aluminum. drill and file. fun stuff. -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
post a link to a picture of a "proper reed cage" please. -
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- CommentAuthor8ball
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
Are you going to run a stock type carb or a sidedraft? -
- CommentAuthor8ball
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
http://www.scooter-and-service.de/galerie_detail.php?we_lv_ct_ImageGallery=image%2F*&we_lv_order_ImageGallery=we_filename&we_lv_ws_ImageGallery=881&we_lv_se_ImageGallery=0&we_lv_start_ImageGallery=0&we_lv_pend_ImageGallery=1&we_lv_pstart_ImageGallery=0
this design could be used for the stella mtr with a different bottom -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010 edited
side draft... Mikuni 28 with the pollini manifold.
but my question is why do you need big assed petals is you are going form a 1 sq in manifold tube to a 1 sq in intake hole on the case.... Wouldn't 1 sq in of opening when the petals are fully open do the trick?
I am fairly confidant I could make my reed block, just thicker, so I could eliminate the deflection limiter thingy -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
got it now... the reed block y'all like the reeds are oriented toward the crank center as opposed to tangential to it.... therefore the area of the opening can be much larger as opposed to what I have now. I would need a block and reeds, and then I could make the cage. -
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- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 22nd 2010
I have one you can borrow for a model. but I will need it back eventually. -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2010
Any idea how big the reed block and reed cage are (overall outside dimensions). I would like to start scrounging for blocks of aluminum in the scrap barrels here at work. -
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CommentAuthormario
- CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2010
Rob Hodge was making mmw type reed blocks for stella motors. If you went that route and used a gas flowed crank you should have quite the little monster. -
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- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2010
Hodge setups are 450. Silly money. I like the idea of making on fromscratch. I will measure the one I have for you. -
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CommentAuthorgerad
- CommentTimeFeb 23rd 2010
$450 Stella reed block? ¡aye carumba! -
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- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 24th 2010
I was mis-informed. I read o the stella forum back in the day that it would be in the 450 range, but that was with the tassinari reed cage and reeds. sip was selling just the reed block and manifold for 240 without the cage and reeds. -
- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeFeb 25th 2010
Also, I have the scootrs reed manifold coming for you already, so we should wait till it gets here work with it to make a block you can use. -
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CommentAuthormario
- CommentTimeFeb 25th 2010
JJ you are right, there really is not a lot to it. I think all the conversions use RD 350 Reed cages. You should be able to base your base manifold off of the cage and the case by using your mmw reed block as a template. JJ's drill press should make this a little easier. Another route is to talk to Hot Rod Al. He was doing a lot with stella cases. He prolly has some great ideas. -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeFeb 25th 2010
I will be making them on the mill at work. Machining is fun. -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeMar 1st 2010 edited
This is a cross section of what I'm attempting to make. The cage (the blue part) has teh outside shape done, tomorrow I will mill out the cavity and drill the mount holes. -
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- CommentAuthor8ball
- CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
Looks like a winner. -
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CommentAuthorgerad
- CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
Will the way the bottom reed hangs out like that interfere with anything? -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
No, its less than the distance my current reed deflection limiter thing-ama-bob hangs in the case. -
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- CommentAuthor8ball
- CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
The stella motor has a square hole. The cage will descend into the opening. -
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CommentAuthorgerad
- CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
oh cool. I was worried it would reach into the crank case. -
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- CommentAuthor8ball
- CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
Jamie is always careful who reaches into his crankcase. -
- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
Bad ass Jamie. Your manifold got here today. -
- CommentAuthorpete
- CommentTimeMar 1st 2010
just have to add...
drunken I love you guys... -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010 edited
a little drunken love from Pete always makes me feel all squishy inside. -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010 edited
is the the manifold?
http://www.scooterwest.com/items/?_pageCCS=t#page=/item_details/Polini-Vintage-Vespa-Intake-Manifold/2343
What is the bolt pattern? Does it match the pattern on the reed block or is it different? -
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- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010
this is the one you originally wanted, it cam from sip- but it is from scootrs.
http://scootrs.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=966 -
- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010
the one you linked to is meant to go right on the case with no reed. as per your design, check the malossi reed I loaned you, it has a different manifold that goes on top, a flat plate with a tube coming out. you can make that easy peezy, any angle you want. -
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CommentAuthorgerad
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010
That doesn't look like it'll work with a reed block. Looks like it made for the stock case induction. -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010
I think it might work with some slight modification, if not an adapter could easily be made. -
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- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010 edited
might be too tall.
something like this perhaps. http://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/40430000/Connecting+piece+SIP+for.aspx -
- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010
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- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010
if you wanna impress the ladies http://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/M025084B/Connecting+piece+Reed+valve+manifold+.aspx -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeMar 2nd 2010
and oddly enough I happen to have one of those in my living room right now ;) -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeMar 3rd 2010
reed cage fail. Short of using some sort of a silicone like sealant, I don't see sealing being remotely possible , for a couple of reasons. I will defer back to modifying my stock reed block. -
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- CommentAuthor8ball
- CommentTimeMar 3rd 2010
What failed? the cage? the block of alum you machined? -
- CommentAuthorJ2
- CommentTimeMar 3rd 2010
hmm. too bad. -
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CommentAuthorjamie
- CommentTimeMar 3rd 2010
design fail... I will have it with me tomorrow and show you. -